Ways to send a car to Hell
By The Jolly Roger
There are 1001 ways to destroy a car but I am going to cover only the ones that are the
most fun (for you), the most destructive (for them), and the hardest to trace (for the
cops).
• Place thermite on the hood, light it, and watch it burn all the way through the pavement!
• Tape a CO bomb to the hood, axle, gas tank, wheel, muffler, etc.
• Put a tampon, dirt, sugar (this one is good!), a ping pong ball, or just about anything that
will dissolve in the gas tank.
• Put potatoes, rocks, bananas, or anything that will fit, into the tailpipe. Use a broom
handle to stuff 'em up into the tailpipe.
• Put a long rag into the gas tank and light it...
• Steal a key, copy it, replace it, and then steal the stereo.
• Break into the car. Cut a thin metal ruler into a shape like this:
Slide it into the outside window and keep pulling it back up until you catch the lock cable
which should unlock the door. This device is also called a SLIM JIM. Now get the stereo,
equalizer, radar detector, etc. Now destroy the inside. (A sharp knife does wonders on the
seats!)
Solidox Bombs
By The Jolly Roger
Most people are not aware that a volatile, extremely explosive chemical can be bought over
the counter: Solidox.
Solidox comes in an aluminum can containing 6 grey sticks, and can be bought at K-Mart, and
various hardware supply shops for around $7.00. Solidox is used in welding applications as an
oxidizing agent for the hot flame needed to melt metal. The most active ingredient in
Solidox is potassium chlorate, a filler used in many military applications in the WWII era.
Since Solidox is literally what the name says: SOLID OXygen, you must have an energy
source for an explosion. The most common and readily available energy source is common
household sugar, or sucrose. In theory, glucose would be the purest energy source, but it is
hard to find a solid supply of glucose.
Making the mixture:
Open the can of Solidox, and remove all 6 sticks. One by one, grind up each of the sticks
(preferably with a mortar and pestle) into the finest powder possible.
The ratio for mixing the sugar with the Solidox is 1:1, so weigh the Solidox powder, and
grind up the equivalent amount of sugar.
Mix equivalent amounts of Solidox powder, and sugar in a 1:1 ratio.
It is just that simple! You now have an extremely powerful substance that can be used in a
variety of applications. A word of caution: be EXTREMELY careful in the entire process.
Avoid friction, heat, and flame. A few years back, a teenager I knew blew 4 fingers off
while trying to make a pipe bomb with Solidox. You have been warned!
Counterfeiting Money
By The Jolly Roger
Before reading this article, it would be a very good idea to get a book on photo offset
printing, for this is the method used in counterfeiting
this method of printing, counterfeiting should be a simple task for you.
Genuine currency is made by a process called "gravure", which involves etching a metal
block. Since etching a metal block is impossible to do by hand, photo offset printing comes
into the process.
Photo offset printing starts by making negatives of the currency with a camera, and putting
the negatives on a piece of masking material (usually orange in color). The stripped
negatives, commonly called "flats", are then exposed to a lithographic plate with an arc light
plate maker. The burned plates are then developed with the proper developing chemical. One
at a time, these plates are wrapped around the plate cylinder of the press.
The press to use should be an 11 by 14 offset, such as the AB Dick 360. Make 2 negatives of
the portrait side of the bill, and 1 of the back side. After developing them and letting them
dry, take them to a light table. Using opaque on one of the portrait sides, touch out all the
green, which is the seal and the serial numbers. The back side does not require any
retouching, because it is all
one color. Now, make sure all of the negatives are registered (lined up correctly) on the
flats. By the way, every time you need another serial number, shoot 1 negative of the
portrait side, cut out the serial number, and remove the old serial number from the flat
replacing it with the new one.
Now you have all 3 flats, and each represents a different color: black, and 2 shades of
green (the two shades of green are created by mixing inks). Now you are ready to burn the
plates. Take a lithographic plate and etch three marks on it. These marks must be 2 and
9/16 inches apart, starting on one of the short edges. Do the same thing to 2 more plates.
Then, take 1 of the flats and place it on the plate, exactly lining the short edge up with the
edge of the plate. Burn it, move it up to the next mark, and cover up the exposed area you
have already burned. Burn that, and do the same thing 2 more times, moving the flat up one
more mark. Do the same process with the other 2 flats (each on a separate plate). Develop
all three plates. You should now have 4 images on each plate with an equal space between
each bill.
The paper you will need will not match exactly, but it will do for most situations. The paper
to use should have a 25% rag content. By the way, Disaperf computer paper (invisible
perforation) does the job well. Take the paper and load it into the press. Be sure to set the
air, buckle, and paper thickness right. Start with the black plate (the plate without the
serial numbers). Wrap it around the cylinder and load black ink in. Make sure you run more
than you need because there will be a lot of rejects. Then, while that is printing, mix the
inks for the serial numbers and the back side. You will need to add some white and maybe
yellow to the serial number ink. You also need to add black to the back side. Experiment
until you get it right. Now, clean the press and print the other side. You will now have a bill
with no green seal or serial numbers. Print a few with one serial number, make another and
repeat. Keep doing this until you have as many different numbers as you want. Then cut the
bills to the exact size with a paper cutter. You should have printed a large amount of money
by now, but there is still one problem; the paper is pure white. To dye it, mix the following in
a pan: 2 cups of hot water, 4 tea bags, and about 16 to 20 drops of green food coloring
(experiment with this). Dip one of the bills in and compare it to a genuine
necessary adjustments, and dye all the bills. Also, it is a good idea to make them look used.
For example, wrinkle them, rub coffee grinds on them, etc.
As before mentioned, unless you are familiar with photo offset printing, most of the
information in this article will be fairly hard to understand. Along with getting a book on
photo offset printing, try to see the movie "To Live and Die in LA". It is about a
counterfeiter, and the producer does a pretty good job of showing how to counterfeit. A
good book on the subject is "The Poor Man's James Bond".
If all of this seems too complicated to you, there is one other method available for
counterfeiting: The Canon color laser copier. The Canon can replicate ANYTHING in vibrant
color, including US currency. But, once again, the main problem in counterfeiting is the
paper used. So, experiment, and good luck!